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 Monday, 06 September 2010
Mrs. Johnson's Bakery
Mrs. Johnson's Bakery
4909 Airport Blvd (map)
Austin, Texas 78751

512-255-3629
Daily   8:00pm-12:00pm (next day)
Fresh Glazed Donuts 9pm, 10pm, 2am, 3am, 5am
Foodies: Slowdog, Ping, Broccoli, Carboqueen, KobaltKween, Mr. Thraz
Cost: $0.50 - $5

Donut makers have had a few tough years.  As the quintessential villans in the entire low carb movement, the idea of a fried pastry has been the bane of dieters everywhere.  The downturn has impacted large national chains like Dunkin Donuts and Krispy Kreme along with small local shops.  Fortunately, for the rest of us, Mrs. Johnson's has been serving fresh hot glazed donuts along a quiet strip of Airport Boulevard since 1948.

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The hot donut light beckons passing motorists like a siren call as they drive by in the evening.  Whenever the sign is lit, it means that glazed donuts are freshly out of the fryer.  Often orders will be accompanied by a complementary glazed donut so that it can be tasted as hot and fresh as possible.

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The comforting smell of donuts meets the senses as the rising yeasty dough slowly proofs in a large steel vat.  While often donuts are thought of as pre-formed pastry items, the sight of the huge tub of dough is reminescent of rising bread.  Once the dough rises, it is spread thin and cut into the distinctive donut shapes.  Freshly cooked donuts rest right after their sugary glaze bath.

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The donuts line the counters and shelves behind the register.  Assortments of cake donut and fruit filled donuts along with savory items like sausage and cheese kolaches adorn the shelves.  In addition to the glazed donuts, many varieties are available like the custard and bravarian cream filled donuts, jelly donuts and chcolate donuts.  

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But to the item at hand.  Mrs. Johnson's donuts are more substantial than the wispy glazed donuts from Krispy Kreme.  The more bready dough is heavier, but still ligh and airy.  The glaze wash is a nice blend of the vanilla sugar flavors and the richness of the cooking oil.  The flavor sensation is that of a deep fried treat.  You know it's bad for you, but it's definitely worth the indulgence.  Unlike the donuts from Krispy Kreme, the donuts from Mrs. Johnson's have more of a half-life in which the donut is still edible.  Often, Krispy Kreme donuts seem to lose their attractiveness mere hours after purchase.  The donuts from Mrs. Johnsons seem to hold their characteristic flavor and texture for a day or more.  The texture is similar to Round Rock Donuts with the Round Rock donuts being more chewy and bread-like.  Each variety has its charm and merit depends on mood and time of day.    

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Adding to the indulgence are the sausage and cheese kolaches from Mrs. Johnsons.  Even though the kolaches are filled with processed cheese and vienna sausages, there is something about them that makes them absolutely delectable.  Perhaps it is the sheer abandonment of anything healthy or maybe it is the warm combination of savory meats with the richness of cheese in a freshly baked soft bread.  Either way, the kolaches are definitely a plus at Mrs. Johnsons.

Austin is filled with "legendary" restaurants that often seem to fail the reputations that precede them.  The term "Austin Institution" has become more derogatory than complimentary when used to describe a restaurant.  However, Mrs. Johnson's is an exception to the rule serving hot fresh and economical treats for late night cravings for something hot and greasy.

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Last Updated ( Saturday, 16 December 2006 )
 
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