1300 W. Anderson Lane (map) Austin, TX 78757 512-289-9262 M-Sa              8:00am-8:00pm Su                  8:00am-3:00pm http://www.tamaleo.com/ Foodquest: July 8 2006, July 15, 2006 Foodies: Slowdog, Pokey, Ping Cost: $  Rating:

Oaxacan Tamaleo is a well known fixture at the Austin Farmer's Market every weekend on fourth street.  The three varieties of tamales, Red Mole Chicken, Green Chili Pork and Black Bean tempt palates with their deep seasoning, light texture and intense flavor.  Whereas tamales for the most part tend to be somewhat mealy, Oaxacan Tamaleo's rendition infuse each bite with flavorful filling while the slim rectangular shape allows for a lighter consistency.  The end result is somewhat reminescent of the meat and peanut filled sticky rice that is popular in Asian cultures.  Similar to the Asian rendition, the Oaxacan Tamaleo is also steamed in a banana leaf. 

The restaurant is easy to miss with only a small sign announcing its presence.  Located to one side of the La Chica convenience store, the family run restaurant greets every customer like an old friend.  The accolades bestowed on Oaxacan Tamaleo definitely speaks of what a restaurant can do if it focuses on good food and good value for its customers.  Entrees are extremely affordable with full meals running for $6.50 or less.  The quantity and quality of food for the money would put many other restaurants in Austin to shame. 

The Tamaleo plate comes with two tamales, black beans, rice and a small salad to the side.  It is interesting to note how many seem to mistaken the pork tamale with its lighter color for the chicken and the chicken mole tamale for the pork.  So much for the pork industry's advertising campaign emphasizing pork as the other white meat..  But I kid...  The meat filling make up a substantial portion of the tamale with the masa serving as a flavor and texture complement to the whole.  Rather than overwhelming the filling with its mealiness, the masa is nicely balanced in proportion with the meats and allows the flavors to fully develop.  The masa is light and flavorful and is decidedly different than that of many other tamales.  The red mole has a deep flavor that speaks of the myriad of seasonings involved in its creation.  The seasonings fully infuse the chicken and meld perfectly while delivering a definite kick in spiciness. 

The pork tamale has a subtle blend of seasonings that allow the natural flavors of the pork to emerge from the combination.  Tender, yet not mushy, the pork filling brings the green chili flavor elements to the forefront and delivers a surprising spice kick seconds after the initial taste. 

The black bean tamale combines the well seasoned flavors of the black bean into a tender and moist tamale that would be a delight for any vegetarian.  Definitely not lacking in flavor, the starchiness of the beans help to create a contrast of textures with the masa. 

The sides are not neglected at Oaxacan Tamaleo with the black beans infused with seasoning and flavor.  Each bite comes with its own package of spices and wakes the palate with a unique blend of savoriness with the richness of the cheese topping. 

The Red Mole Chicken is so amazingly tender that the meat can be lifted cleanly off the bone with a light touch of the fork.  Slowly simmered until every ounce of chicken is fully infused with flavor, the mole chicken has to be tried to be believed.  The collective reaction around the table with the first forkfull speaks volumes about the entree.  The Red Mole Chicken is accompanied by fresh homemade tortillas that are crispy, yet soft.  The flavor combination is one that sets a new bar for Chicken Moles in Austin.

Lamb Barbacoa combines the natural flavors of lamb with fiery seasonings.  Slowly cooked until the lamb is tender, each bite reminds the reviewer what Barbacoa should really be like.  In contrast to the bland and tough Barbacoa being passed off at some popular Mexican restaurants around Austin, the Lamb Barbacoa delivers on both flavor and value.    

The Fried Plaintains at Oaxacan Tamaleo are sliced and slowly pan fried until the outside is lightly carmelized to bring out the natural sweetness of the plantain.   The plaintain slices are then dabbed with small dollops of cream and served piping hot.  The delicate crunch followed by the warm and soft interior is reminescent of creme brulee.

The Flan is firm, but tender enough to be cut easily with a fork.  A light drizzle of caramel is accompanied by slices of fresh strawberries.  The tartness of the strawberries help to enhance the rich and eggy flavors of the flan.  Overall, the deserts complement the solid quality of the entrees. 

Oaxacan Tamaleo reminds us that the quality of a restaurant should not be defined by the appearance of its decor or its location.  Rather, the care and attention put into the quality of the food can put many higher priced restaurants to shame.  Ultimately, it is about the food.  Oaxacan Tamaleo takes the diner on a journey to the flavors of Interior Mexico and does so at a price that will hardly make a dent on the pocket book.

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