9437 I-35 (map) Austin, TX 78731 512-467-6700  M-Th           10:00am-10:00pm F-Sa            10:00am-11:00pm Foodquest: January 13, 2006 Foodies: Slowdog, Ping Cost: $  Rating:

The line of people extends from the small window in this small but bustling shopping complex.  Nearby, traffic from I-35 crawls along at a snail's pace.  Car after car pulls into the rapidly filling parking lot and vie for a spot to stand in line in front of the small window.    Fortunately for us, the line moves ahead at a brisk pace.   Soon we'll be able to see what all this fuss is about.

Like Obi-Won Kenobi, the voice of my friend hovers near my ear as we approach the I-35 branch of El Regio.  "Don't forget, it's not the El Regio Taqueria.  Go to the end of the shopping complex and it will be the small window on your left..."  Told by someone who makes the trek from the University of Texas at Austin during lunch break and returns with six or more birds by request.   The chicken at El Regio is served either whole or half with an accompaniment of rice, flame grilled whole onion, lime, jalapeno/avacado hot sauce, salsa, and a generous portion of tortillas.  The whole chicken is available for $11 whereas the half is sold for $7. 

Pollos Asados Al Carbon or chicken slowly roasted over charcoal from El Regio is said by many to be nearly a religious experience.  Before roasting, the chicken is brined in a specially seasoned marinade.  The chicken is then seasoned with a unique South American medley of spices and split and roasted over hot charcoals until  the flavors are infused throughout.  The smokiness of the mesquite charcoal combines with the dry seasoning rub to produce a complex aroma and flavor that quickly sates the senses.  The flavor is uniquely accented with tones of the Achiote Recado rub (a reddish citrus-like spice paste made from Achiote berries) and nicely combines the smokiness of barbeque with the unique savoriness and pungency of the seasoning. 

The chicken for the most part is amazingly moist and tender with each bite well balanced in terms of savoriness.  However, the breast meat, always a lithmus test, is somewhat dryer than the chicken from Pollo Campero.  Like the Pollo Campero chicken, the El Regio chicken can be eaten as strips of chicken wrapped in the tortilla along with roasted onion, rice and sauces.  The challenge though is to be able to take up a piece to pull it apart without just going ahead and eating it. 

Carmelized onions is a fine art in which the onion can achieve very little carmelization or a high degree of carmelization.  As the degree of carmelization increases, the onion grows increasingly sweet and loses its sharp accents.  The roasted onion from El Regio falls closer to the lightly roasted range of the spectrum with the charcoal facing end highly crisped and the rest steamed in its own juices.  The result is a light sweetness with the sharp tones of partially cooked onion.

The onion complements the flavor of the chicken and lends a sweetness that brings out the accents of the seasoning as well as the savoriness of the meat.  The hot sauces further ramps up the flavor on the palate and together deliver a bold statement to the palate.

A generous portion of freshly made corn tortillas are included with each chicken.  Nicely wrapped in foil, the tortillas are so fresh that a short exposure to the air makes the top most layers curl at the edges.  The included lime can be sprinked on the chicken for an added zest.

The included rice is nicely cooked with the grains separate and not too soggy.  The portion size, while perfect for a half chicken, runs out quickly with a whole.  The cumin seasoning is nicely accentuated with the savoriness of garlic and salt.

The unique jalapeno avocado salsa is a delightfully green sauce that offers a double punch of creaminess and spiciness.  Be warned, this salsa is extremely hot.  Word on the street is that the sauce grows increasingly hot as the day goes on.  However, the creaminess of the sauce is an absolute delight on the chicken.  The spiciness wakes up the senses while the smooth texture soothes the fires that rages in your mouth. 

El Regio's tomato salsa is the kinder gentler cousin of their creamy jalapeno avocado sauce.  The salsa provides a fresh tanginess to the chicken and blends nicely with the other sides.  Along with tanginess, the salsa also lends a surprising sweetness that increases the refreshing quality of the sauce. 

At four locations in Austin and growing,  El Regio has definitely evolved from its humble beginnings as a street stand on Riverside.  Its unique rendition of roasted chicken with the evocative flavors of the South American seasoning and marination provides Austin with a tasty and economical choice for dining.  The chicken itself is extremely moist and flavorful and is excellent on its own or in combination with the included sides.  Either way, it's decidedly tasty eats and an easy way to journey away from the everyday. 

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