1209 E 11th St. (map) Austin, TX 78702 (512) 477-6600 M-F     11am-7pm Sat      8am-7pm Sun     11am-4pm http://www.genesrestaurant.com Foodquest: Summer 2005 Foodies: Slowdog,  Ping Cost: $ Rating:

The savory smell wafts through the air and greets you as soon as the car door opens.  The kind of smell that tells you that you're in for some seriously good eats.  The foodies have been in search for some good fried chicken and cobbler in town to no avail.  With the scent pulling us toward the door, we decide to explore further...

Gene has been serving up New Orleans style po' boys and southern cuisine for the past five years.  Initially starting in one section of building, Gene has recently expanded into the space next door to allow for more seating.  This has been a much welcomed expansion for the masses of foodies that make the trek to indulge in the southern fried goodness that eminates from the kitchen of Gene's.

It is surprising how good properly buttered toast can be.  Too often, we are served toast that is limp and tasteless that is often thrown on the dish as an afterthought.  The toast that accompanies the meals at Gene's is not only warm and crunchy, but coated with a fine butteriness that foretells the attention that is paid to the food.  It is this attention to detail that we will see again and again through the various entrees offered by Gene.

Underneath the warm toast lies the freshly prepared and delighfully marinated chicken wings.  Despite multiple visits by the foodies, we have been unable to order any of the actual fried chicken before the supply for the day is exhausted.  Nonetheless, the wings are a treat in and of themselves.  Each bite is filled with a delicate balance of herbs and garlic that tells you that you are indeed eating what you smelled wafting through the air outside.  Hiding under the chicken wings are Gene's french fries.  What's so special about these fries you ask?  Well, it's that certain something that only comes to you when you take a bite for the first time - a certain flavor that seems to have disappeared in the late '80s but one that is hard to describe.  Something about french fries back then that seems to have gradually disappeared and that I hadn't realized was missing until I discovered it once again.  The delightful accent that deep frying in lard adds to the flavor of of food.  It sure ain't good for you, but it sure tastes like it should be.  As the old adage goes, fat equals flavor.  With his fries, Gene shows that he is not afraid of teasing out every bit of flavor he can out of his cooking. 

As a foodie from New Jersey once told me, it's the bread that makes the sandwich.  What's "correct" in terms of a hoagie, po' boy, sub, grinder, and what have you is enough to spark a major holy war.  Nonetheless, Gene's rendition of the New Orleans po' boy is excellently prepared.  Using freshly baked french bread, Gene hollows out the middle to allow for ample filling without it overflowing.  The bread is warm with a crispy crust.  Each bite takes you through the layers of ingredients that combine savory with tangy flavors.  The po' boys themselves are extremely generous with each half easily filling up the length of the basket.  Given the price, the po' boys at Gene's are not only filling, but an excellent deal.

Imagine my horror when I recently saw a commercial by Burger King selling the exact thing that Gene has had on the menu for years.  It really makes me wonder about the chicken and the egg  on this one.  Gene's chicken fries offer a unique combination of chicken in boneless strips that are thin enough to resemble thick-cut shoestring fries, hence the name I suppose.  After the tremendous flavor combinations offered by the previous entrees of this visit, the chicken fries were somewhat disappointing.  The chicken fries simply lacked the flavor that one had come to expect.

It is surprisingly hard to find good cobbler in the city of Austin.  Even restaurants that otherwise have spectacular offerings often fall short in the cobbler department.  Another well known establishment in town, for instance, should be ashamed to call their cobbler a cobbler.  Gene's peach cobbler, on the other hand, is by far the best cobbler ever discovered in our fair city.  Served warm with crust both crispy and soft with just the right touch of cinnamon, the peaches inside yield to the bite with a burst of flavor.  This is how peach cobbler is supposed to be. 

To top it off, the banana pudding truly provides another well executed dessert.  Unlike the mass produced commercial grade puddings we often find in buffet lines and grocery aisles, Gene's banana pudding shows what pudding is supposed to be like.  Each bite finishes with a rich and smooth mouthfeel which then dissolves into a wonderful sweetness that begs for more.  Imagine the feel of an indulgent super-premium ice cream and add the flavors of fresh bananas and the crispness of vanilla wafers.  The result is a wonderful combination. 

Gene's offers a combination of good old fashioned southern and cajun cuisine at extremely reasonable prices.  A little hidden gem of a restaurant in East Austin, Gene's is definitely the place to visit when a hankering for excellent southern food strikes.  Sometimes, it's all about the food...

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